DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF CANVAS TROUSERS USING SUSTAINABLE NATURAL DYE

: The production of textiles is the second most polluting industry worldwide. Non-biodegradable petro-leum-based dyes, toxic compounds to fix colors on textiles, and the release of large quantities of these colorants and complicated agents into the neighboring environment are the key causes of this issue. On the other hand, natural dyes are chemicals prevalent in nature and with eco-friendly properties. These dyes are recyclable and biodegradable. Due to their sustainability, they decompose readily in the soil after final usage. Again, canvas fabric is a durable, heavy-duty fabric used for tents, sails, bags, and industry. The use of canvas fabric in fashionable clothing is limited. This study aims to produce fashionable canvas trousers using sustainable garment dyeing. For environmental sustainability, we use natural turmeric dye extracted from turmeric rhizomes. We use tie-dyeing and over-dyeing techniques for garment dyeing. After dyeing and washing the canvas trousers, tests such as color-fastness to rubbing, wash, perspiration, and water (hot and cold) have been done. Both samples showed moderate to good test results. This study’s main objective is to determine whether canvas fabrics can be used in fashionable styles in a sustainable approach.


INTRODUCTION
Fashion is a mindset.Fashion encompasses everything from interior design to toy models.It's the spirit of being comfortable in one's clothes and turning them into a style.Culturally, socially, and psychologically, it can measure mood.Fashion has become simpler since the beginning.However, fashion refers to a country's predominant clothing style.Fashion is associated with textiles, clothing, and trends.Textiles are woven cloths.It celebrates our diverse world.Fashion lasts as long as a large portion of society accepts it, which could be months or years.Fashion trends change seasonally.Summer colors include pastels and lighter fabrics.Winter brings darker and brighter colors and heavier fabric [1].To enhance the eco-friendly qualities of textiles made from natural fibers, natural colorants are most commonly used.Other natural dyes than indigo are typically not used for direct printing.In addition to synthetic dyes, natural dyes can be used to color fiber, yarn, and fabric at all stages.Natural dyes are biodegradable and do not pose any health risks; therefore, they can be used without much concern for the environment.There has been a recent resurgence of interest in the use of natural dyes to mitigate the environmental damage caused by synthetic dyes [2].
The textile manufacturing sectors are, once more, the second most polluting industry in the ecosphere.Approximately twenty percent of global water contamination is attributable to textile dyeing methods, and synthetic dyes significantly contribute to this contamination.The use of non-biodegradable petroleum-based dyes to color textiles, the employment of toxic compounds to fix colors on textiles, and the release of large quantities of these colorants and complicated agents into the surrounding environment are the primary causes of this problem.Therefore, natural dyes can play a crucial part in the sustainability of this phenomenon.Natural dyes are chemicals prevalent in nature and with eco-friendly properties.These dyes are recyclable, biodegradable, or decomposable.Due to their sustainability, they decompose readily in the soil after final usage.The benefits of natural dyes are eco-friendly, cheap, non-hazardous, available, soft shade, harmonious, and decomposable [3] [4].
In 2021, Md.Sumon Miah, Md.Mashiur Rahman Khan and Md.Nakib Ul Hasan applied various washing effects to stylish canvas cloth trousers.To accomplish this, readyto-dye canvas cloth pants were made and colored using dischargeable reactive dye (Lava).The trousers were subjected to chemical cleaning methods, including whisker, enzyme, and PP spray.Mechanical tests were done to test the generated samples, including tensile strength, tear strength, stiffness, abrasion, pilling, colorfastness to washing, and colorfastness to rubbing [5].
However, the most important aspects of clothing are its quality and appearance.Washing is a finishing step that improves the garment and is a comfort/luxury characteristic.It also affects the various mechanical qualities of clothing.As it makes garments appear more worn and elder, it diminishes their mechanical characteristics.Cotton canvas has been used positively as a protective wear material for years, such as in flame-resistant, water-resistant oil paintings, ultraviolet-resistant fabric, modular clothes, and gloves [6] [7].However, an effort has yet to be made to promote canvas fabric as a stylish alternative to denim, nor have any analyses of the physio-mechanical and luxurious features of naturally dyed-washed canvas trousers been published.Therefore, this study aims to develop trendy canvas pants with comparable properties to denim pants that meet sustainability standards.

MATERIALS AND METHODS
The researchers used woven fabrics, natural (Turmeric) dyes, trims, and accessories to produce canvas trousers.The details have been given below:

Finishing & quality checking
Extract dyes from natural sources

Trousers Manufacturing:
At first, the researchers made patterns based on measurement charts manually.

Fabric Consumption Calculation:
Fabric consumption calculations were done manually.= 6.340 kg per dozen.= 0.528 kg per piece.

Fabric Spreading & Cutting:
Fabric spreading was done manually & hand scissors were used for cutting.

Sewing & Attaching Accessories:
An overlock machine & single needle lock stitch machine were used to sew garments & stitching different accessories on them.

Finishing & Quality Check:
After sewing the garments, extra threads were trimmed by using thread snip & also checking the sewing fault, seaming faults, etc.

Dye Extraction
In this work, we used turmeric as a natural source of dyeing.To produce color from turmeric we had to

Finishing & quality checking
Extract dyes from natural sources using naturally extract dyes

Laboratory testing Conclusion
convert the fresh turmeric roots into fine powder.The process is given below: Fresh turmeric root/rhizomes are used as per the requirement.We used 2 kilograms of turmeric root (shredded) & it generated about 250 grams of dry powder.
Start by cleaning & peeling the turmeric root.
Then cut them into thin equal slices.Here the thinner the pieces, the quicker the drying process.A fine turmeric powder will be produced which have used as a dye for further processes.Quality Check:

Garments Dyeing
arments, extra threads were trimmed by using thread snip & also checking the ing faults, etc. n ed turmeric as a natural source of dyeing.To produce color from turmeric we had h turmeric roots into fine powder.The process is given below: t/rhizomes are used as per the requirement.We used 2 kilograms of turmeric root nerated about 250 grams of dry powder.
peeling the turmeric root.
thin equal slices.Here the thinner the pieces, the quicker the drying process.
sheet with baking paper and arrange the slices on it.It's okay for the pieces to touch, overlap.Then add the slices to a grinder & grind them to a fine powder.Now, the powder is reground after being shifted through a sieve to collect larger chunks.
A fine turmeric powder will be produced which have used as a dye for further processes.

Garments Dyeing Style A
 First, we soaked the garments in the water so it is thoroughly wet. We brought a large pot of water to a simmering heat. We added 30 gm/l of previously ground turmeric powder & 20 gm/l of common salt to the p simmer for 45-50 minutes. Again added 20 ml natural mordant (Aloe vera) to the solution. Then we submerged the garments into the solution. After that, we brought the solution to a boil & let simmer for approximately 90 minutes continuous stirring.This will allow the dye to take to the garment. Then removed the pot from heat & remove the garment from the pot. Rinsed thoroughly to remove any excess dyes. Dried the garment with the dryer at medium heat.

Style B
 First of all, we had to prepare the garment.Rubber bands & sewing threads were use produce a pattern on the garment. After making the pattern, the garment was treated with 40 gm/l salts.After boiling the solu the garments were simmered into the solution for 60 minutes.Then add the slices to a grinder & grind them to a fine powder.Now, the powder is reground after being shifted through a sieve to collect larger A fine turmeric powder will be produced which have used as a dye for further pro

Garments Dyeing Style A
 First, we soaked the garments in the water so it is thoroughly wet. We brought a large pot of water to a simmering heat. We added 30 gm/l of previously ground turmeric powder & 20 gm/l of com simmer for 45-50 minutes. Again added 20 ml natural mordant (Aloe vera) to the solution. Then we submerged the garments into the solution. After that, we brought the solution to a boil & let simmer for approxim continuous stirring.This will allow the dye to take to the garment. Then removed the pot from heat & remove the garment from the pot. Rinsed thoroughly to remove any excess dyes. Dried the garment with the dryer at medium heat.

Style B
 First of all, we had to prepare the garment.Rubber bands & sewing produce a pattern on the garment. After making the pattern, the garment was treated with 40 gm/l salts.Aft the garments were simmered into the solution for 60 minutes.Again added 20 ml natural mordant (Aloe vera) to the solution.Then transfer the dyes into a dropper.• Then pour the dyes on the pattern of the previously made garment with the help of a plastic dropper bottle according to the desired style.
• Then allowed the garment to sit for 24 hours.
• Then untied the garments & rinsed them with cold water to remove the unfixed dyes from the garment's surface.

Fabric Weight
The fabric GSM test is conducted according to the test method ISO 3801-1997.

Fabric Weight
The fabric GSM test is conducted according to the test method ISO 3801-1997.

Colorfastness to Rubbing
The dyed fabric's colorfastness to rubbing is conducted according to the test method ISO X12:2002.

Colorfastness to Wash
The dyed fabric's colorfastness to wash is conducted according to test method ISO 105

Colorfastness to Perspiration
The dyed fabric's colorfastness to perspiration is conducted according to test method ISO E04:1994.

Colorfastness to water(cold)
The dyed fabric color fastness to cold water is conducted according to test method ISO 1 The fabric GSM test is conducted according to the test method ISO 3801-1997.

Colorfastness to Rubbing
The dyed fabric's colorfastness to rubbing is conducted according to the test method IS X12:2002.

Colorfastness to Wash
The dyed fabric's colorfastness to wash is conducted according to test method ISO 105

Colorfastness to Perspiration
The dyed fabric's colorfastness to perspiration is conducted according to test method IS E04:1994.

Colorfastness to water(cold)
The dyed fabric color fastness to cold water is conducted according to test method ISO  Colorfastness to Rubbing yed fabric's colorfastness to rubbing is conducted according to the test method ISO 105 002.
Colorfastness to Wash yed fabric's colorfastness to wash is conducted according to test method ISO 105 105 C01.In contrast, natural colors decay naturally without the need for chemicals.If synthetic dyes disintegrate as byproducts, it is verified that they represent direct or indirect health risks.However, it is unknown whether natural dyes decompose more healthily under natural conditions.This study will be relevant to individuals responsible for ensuring the long-term sustainability of natural textile dyes and their use.

Figure 2 . 1 :
Figure 2.1: flow chart of the work

Figure 2 . 1 :
Figure 2.1: Flow chart of the work

Figure 2 . 1 :
Figure 2.1: flow chart of the work

Figure 2 . 1 :
Figure 2.1: flow chart of the work

Figure 2 . 3 :
Figure 2.3: Turmeric slices Prepare a baking sheet with baking paper and arrange the slices on it.It's okay for the pieces to touch, but they shouldn't overlap.

Figure 2 . 4 :
Figure 2.4: Arrangement of slices Bake in the oven at 40°C for about 3-4 hours.Time & temperature can be changed based on the oven used.When the turmeric is dry and crunchy, it is done.The size of the dried slices will have diminished as well.

Figure 2 . 6 :
Figure 2.6: Grinding of slices Now, the powder is reground after being shifted through a sieve to collect larger chunks.

•
First, we soaked the garments in the water so it is thoroughly wet.• We brought a large pot of water to a simmering heat.• We added 30 gm/l of previously ground turmeric powder & 20 gm/l of common salt to the pot & simmer for 45-50 minutes.• Again added 20 ml natural mordant (Aloe vera) to the solution.• Then we submerged the garments into the solution.• After that, we brought the solution to a boil & let simmer for approximately 90 minutes with continuous stirring.This will allow the dye to take to the garment.• Then removed the pot from heat & remove the garment from the pot.• Rinsed thoroughly to remove any excess dyes.• Dried the garment with the dryer at medium heat.TEKSTILNA INDUSTRIJA Vol.71, No 1, 2023 5 ine & single needle lock stitch machine were used to sew garments & stitching ies on them.

4 . 5 .
Colorfastness to Perspiration dyed fabric's colorfastness to perspiration is conducted according to test method ISO 105 :1994.Colorfastness to water(cold) dyed fabric color fastness to cold water is conducted according to test method ISO 105 E01:1994 Front side view of trousers Front side view of trousers Trousers before dyeing Trousers after style A (Over dyed) TEKSTILNA INDUSTRIJA Vol.71, No 1, 2023

Front
side view of trousers Front side view of trouse Trousers before dyeing Trousers after style A (Over dyed) TEKSTILNA INDUSTRIJA Vol.71, No 1, 2023

Front
side view of trousers Front side view of trous Trousers before dyeing Trousers after style A (Over dyed) TEKSTILNA INDUSTRIJA Vol.71, No 1, 2023