ANALYSIS OF ICE CLIMBER SPORT PERFORMANCE DURING COMPETITION

Sport discipline ice climbing was built on the reputation of climbing frozen waterfalls and can be de ned as a unique discipline under the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) in arti cial, prescribed conditions, and according to certain rules. Due to the lack of articles about the motor activities of top ice climbers, the aim of this study is to determine sport performance of ice climbers, both genders, in discipline “lead climbing”. Both genders are analysed, because in this sport discipline there is positive discrimination, due to the weaker characteristics of the female climbers. e propositions de ne that women and men have di erent climbing routes. erefore, the sample were UIAA World Cup nalists in Beijing (2017) in lead climbing discipline, 8 men and 8 women. e method of work is the analysis of sport performance using the notation analysis. It was found that the average time of the race for men was 224.52 ± 98.81 seconds, of which the active climbing time was 103.88 ± 48.97 seconds, while the passive climbing time – pauses was 119.66 ± 50.40 seconds. e average time of the race of women was 219.09 ± 62.11 seconds, of which the active climbing time was 108.52 ± 31.37 seconds, while the passive climbing time-pause was 110.58 ± 41.42 seconds. Although men and women climbed in a di erent direction, this analysis did not nd the di erence in sport performance between the gender, as well as in terms of the climbing pace and the type of technique used. e results of this analysis can be of great importance to trainers for practical work, for the immediate preparation of competitors for participation in UIAA ice climbing competitions.


INTRODUCTION
Ice climbing is an extreme sport that has been part of traditional mountaineering.It means climbing frozen waterfalls or ice-covered walls -traditional ice climbing (Mashkovskiy et al., 2016).Ice climbing competitions (sports ice climbing) have developed from the climbing of frozen waterfalls, one of the discipline of alpinism.
Sports ice climbing, consisting of two disciplines -"lead" and "speed" climbing, can be de ned as an extreme competitive climbing activity that takes place under the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) in arti cial, prescribed conditions, and according to certain rules (Prac-tICEclimbing, UIAA).e competition polygon is very similar to the rock that is used for sport climbing competitions.In the "lead climbing" discipline, climbers hold their tools in the hands, which look like a mountaineering ice axes, and they are hooked on specially constructed climbing grips.On the legs, the competitors have sharply-pointed shoes, which look likea mountaineering crampon, and stab the metal peaks in the construction of the wall.Using various techniques that dictate the position of the grips and the construction of the wall, by clamping the tools and drilling the crampons into the wall, they compete vertically upwards with the aim of reaching the highest possible point.Each competitor has only one attempt to reach the top in a timeframe that is xed and is the same for all competitors.e result of each competitor is based on the achieved height, except in cases when the competitor successfully reaches the top of the route, then the time is taken as a result.
In the event that more competitors successfully complete the climb before the end of the scheduled time, the faster competitor will be better placed.In order to ensure a fair ght for everyone, competitors stay in an isolation zone prior to their appearance in which they have no opportunity to follow the sport performance of their opponents.
It is obvious that even in this discipline, as in other sports, the level of athlete's performance is measured at the competition.Technically-tactical, but also physical elements displayed at di erent levels of the competition are considered as an integral preparation of athletes (Viner et al., 2012).Integral preparation is the result of the process of combining, harmonizing and realizing various types of preparation (physical, technical, tactical, psychological, theoretical, a ective in training and competition).e optimal level of integral preparation of athletes, which shows itself at the most appropriate moment is the basis for the achieving top results (Koprivica, 2013).e basis for rational approach to the problems of planning, programming, realization and evaluation of the e ects of the systematic training process is in the analysis of sport performance.(Važni, 1978;Boženko, 1997;Nešić, 2002;Majstorović, 2015).Scienti c research in sports should disclose information that sets knowledge in sports.Knowledge is necessary for better understanding of sports performance.Understanding sports allows the purpose of sport to be discovered (Nešić, 2006).So far there has been no research on the sport performance of sports ice climbers.erefore, as the goal of this study is the analysis of quantitative characteristics of the structure of sport performance in ice climbing, in both genders, in climbing discipline -lead.e thesis is that the sport performance of ice climbers will have acceptable and reliable characteristics of central and dispersive statistical parameters; and that a di erence will be noted between the structure of the sport performance in ice climbers in the function of the gender.For methodological reasons, and for the purpose of describing the sport performance, it is necessary to de ne information on the technical-tactical activities of top ice climbers, in both categories (men and women) that are being gathered in the competition.In this sport, as well as at other top competitions (world championships, Olympic Games ...), the success of the competitors is expressed through the achievement of an individual who is able to perform technique of respective sport at extremely high levels in a dynamic and unpredictable environment (Seifert et al., 2014).

METHOD Sample of subjects
e sample of subjects consisted of the UIAA World Cup competitors in Beijing (2017) in both categories (men and women) who took part in the nal round of ice climbing competition.e total number of analyzed competitors was 16, of which 8 men and 8 women.

Sample of variables
Notation technique analysis of competitive activities was used to collect data.e data from the o cial video clip UIAA are registered with the spread sheet.
e results of the measurement were transmitted and processed in Microso O ce EXCEL, version 2007.For each competitor, a notation sheet was lled in with noted techniques, time frame of the duration of movement and type of movement (active or passive).e following variables were observed: -Total Climbing Time (TCT) -time elapsed since the start to the end of the competitor's performance, during one race.TCT was determined for each competitor individually, the average TCT of all competitors was calculated.e result is expressed in seconds (s Individual elements of the climbing technique are simple to perform, they involve the stretching of one hand with the participation of the activity of legs, and the following elements of the climbing technique belong to them: - For the determination of the di erences in arithmetic meanings in the function of a gender for the same variables, Student's t-test for non-contiguous samples was used.For the purposes of determining the di erences between multiple pairs of variables of applied climbing technique, the variance analysis was used -ANOVA.Statistical signi cance was de ned at 95% probability for p <0.05.

Тime parameters of the race in the function of gender
Table 1 shows the results of the Student t-test and coe cient of variation for all time climbing indicators during a single race in both categories, men and women.

Technique elements in the function of gender
Table 2 shows the results of ANOVA analysis in the function of the applied elements of the techniques for men and women.Based on ANOVA results, it can be concluded that there was no statistically signi cant di erence between the observed pairs of variables of the analysed groups of technical elements in the function of gender.e structure of competitive activities in ice climbers, lead climbing discipline, categories men and women had the following attributes and values (Table 3).By analysing the notation sheet, it was found that men did not use the following climbing techniques: the le hand upward on the right, and vice versa, gure nine, le hand down right and le hand down to the le .In the sample of women, it is not determined using the le hand climbing techniques to the right and vice versa, gure nine, le hand down right, right hand down right, right hand down to the right.

DISCUSSION
e aim of this study was to determine the quantitative characteristics of the basic parameters of competitive ice climbers in both categories (men and women), in discipline lead climbing.Based on the results of descriptive indicators of average time during a single race in men and women (Table 1), it can be claimed that the value of the coe cient of variation in total, active and passive climbing-pause times in men exceeds 30% in absolute times.In women, the value of the total and active climbing time is below 30%, while the passive climbing time is above 30%.
e results found in men can be caused by the discrepancy of the duration of the movement -the climbing pace of all competitors.It is assumed that competitors who are more experienced and successful, simpler and easier elements of the technique perform faster in order to save energy for heavier parts.On the contrary, competitors who are less experienced choose a slower climb pace, ie, perform the given elements of a technique with a lower level of e ciency, and possibly with a lower level of economy.
e results indicate the equality of the duration of active movements, as well as the total climbing time in women.Possible cause of large di erences from average results in passive climbing time(total pause) can be the result of competitive preparation, but also competitive experience.Practice has shown that weaker placed competitors spend more time in pause, thinking about next move, while more successful competitors solve this with shorter or even without unnecessary retention.
Results obtained in Table 3. show the basic descriptive indicators of the average duration of individual climbing (motion-movement) techniques in men and women during a single race.It can be concluded that in men the total number of active movements during one race was 14.38 reps (54.96% compared to the total race time), while the pauses on average had 11.63 reps (45.04%) compared to the total number of moves.Such results show that there are more active movements, in one climbing race than passive movements.Women, on average, use 16.75 active movements (55.75%), and pauses 13.5 times (44.25%) during one race.Women, unlike men, spend more time in active movement, and spend less time in pause (passive movements).
When analysing the relative indicators of the results, it was found that the active climbing time in men was 45.20%, while at women was 50.34% compared to the duration of the race. is result is part of the di erence in the pace that originates in the order, e ciency, and economy of movement, but is probably the consequence of gender and on it's better training and competitive preparation that is fact of a higher speed of movement.e active climbing time for women is longer, most likely due to a greater number of attempts to set up the tool, or put the legs in the right position.If an athlete fails on the rst try to nd the best handgrip, then the movement can be repeated without a break to the desired outcome.Future research should take into account also the type of active movement, whether it is worthwhile or not.
is means that the realized elements of the technique should be analysed through the aspect of the applied climbing tactics.In addition, the total climbing time is around 224 seconds, which implies complex metabolic process that occur due to the overall involvement of the muscular system not comparable with other sports.We must not ignore the constant in uence of the gravity force that requires more energy in opposing its intensity.
When analysing the relative duration of the pause, it is observed that during a single race in men it was54.52%relative to the total climbing time, while in women, the passive climbing time was 49.66%.e origin of this di erence in result may be that men need a longer rest period because of the higher muscle mass they have comparing to women.Also, women may spend less time resting because of the rationality and prevalence of fat metabolism in the process for obtaining energy comparing to men (metabolic criteria) or climbing without much unnecessary retention (technical criteria).A pause on the rock is not a complete break, but it is also the period of fatigue; even its speci c static component.Fatigue in sports has a complex nature and is still insu ciently studied.At the root of this fatigue is the temporarily disturbed internal balance of the organism, de ned as allostasis-homeostasis, which main consequence is decreased working capacity (Fratric, 2015).Reduced competitive ability, if long lasting, can lead to a complete loss of competitiveness which nally lead to the end of an athlete's performance.erefore, it is necessary for the competitors to carefully balance between recovery and fatigue during their performance.Reducing the competitive potential of an athlete in a short time is primarily conditioned by metabolic changes as response of the organism to highly intensive activities (Veljović et al., 2012).Both genders come to the competition results rstly by the technique.In the second and third steps, they di er in way that women dominantly based their result on endurance and then on strength, while the strength takes second and endurance third place in men.
Highly intensive activities are not only caused by physical fatigue, but by intellectual, sensory and emotional ones.For gender analysis, an interesting and signi cant analysis of the neuroendocrine origin of fatigue, in particular the participation of anabolic hormones (sympathetic origin) in relation to catabolic hormones (parasympathetic origin), would be interesting.Common to all of these types of fatigue is the impact on decision-making ability, choosing the best routes of climbing and applying the most appropriate technique ... Certainly, even the feeling of pace with a high degree of fatigue is "compromised".
Table 3 shows basic descriptive indicators of the frequency of realization of elements of climbing techniques in men and women during the analysed competition-climbing race.
e notation analysis of the competition activities indicated that certain techniques were not used at the Beijing competition (right hand le , le hand to the right, le hand down right, right hand down right, le hand to the le , gure nine).e thesisi s that the crossing movements (right hand to the le , le hand to the right) do not appear in ice climbing competitions due to the technical complexity of performance and physical di culty, or the con guration of the wall and route set-up did not require the use of these techniques.Further research on this sport discipline that would be extended to other UIAA ice climbing competitions could verify those theses.
Based on the results of the coe cient of variation for all elements of the technique of over 30% in men implies a multiple way of solving the problem in climbing of each competitor (individual approach to a competitive result).e competitors used di erent techniques for overcoming the same problems on the competition route.In women, the value of the coefcient of variation is less than 30%, only in the technique right-hand side is 14.24%.is result can mean that most competitors have solved the problem in the same way, ie the route was set so that it was the easiest and most e ective way to overcome it with this technique.Based on the results of the Student t-test, the di erence in time indicators of the race between men and women found that there are no statistically signi cant di erences in any of the analysed variables.On the basis of the obtained results, it was concluded that the total climbing time, on average, was 224.52 seconds in men, while in women it was 219.09s.ese results indicate a similar structure of the time parameters of the sport performance in men and women, although they compete on di erent competitive paths (routes) on the wall of the same con guration.Based on the results of the analysis of the variance -ANO-VA of the observed pairs of variables of the analysed groups of technical elements in the function of gender, there is no statistically signi cant di erence for any variable (Table 2). is result suggests that the structure of the techniques applied by men and women in the competition does not di er, although they go in di erent directions, on the same construction, ie, wall.us, the whole problem returns to the time parameters, namely the pace of movement which, as the results show, signi cantly in uence the order of the competitors.Choosing the right and most ecient pace of movement depends on the rhythm, the cognitive side of the competitor, but also the characteristics of the general and speci c training before the competition.What is important to point out is, from a theoretical point of view, which may be useful in the application of this young sport, the fact that the pace belongs to the time parameters of the movement.
at means that they originate from the parts of the motor cortex where there are no parameters for spatial side of the locomotion.In other words, the spatial and time parameters of movement are remembered in di erent parts of the motor cortex, which means that, learning and adopting them are determined by age.Time coordinating parameters are conditioned by early learning and specialization, while spatial parameters are determined by the muscular force as well as the morphological characteristics of athletes (Jevtić, 2011).erefore, for the development of ice climbing, one of the rst tasks is the setting of quality theory, methodology and training technology.On this path, it would also be important to create a multi-year program and an athlete's development program in the function of specializing in the challenges of this extreme sports discipline.

CONCLUSION
e subject of this study was to determine the structure of the sport performance in the discipline of lead climbing in the function of gender and pace.
e structure of the analysed ice-climbing performance has acceptable and reliable characteristics of central and dispersive statistical parameters.Although the men and women in the competition are climbing in di erent directions and have a di erent, predetermined time for this, there is no di erence between the pro le of the sport performance in the function of the gender; neither in terms of time parameters (pace), nor in terms of the type of applied technique.
Further research should have the aim, based on the consideration of speci c characteristics of athletes, to acquire Know-how knowledge and / or technical skills related to procedures, processes, programs, standards ... in the context of specialization, as well as in the area of knowledge and philosophy of ice climbing itself.
e results obtained by this study can serve to model the training of competitors who will take part in UIAA World Cups in ice climbing with the ultimate goal of improving e ciency and achieving success in the competition.
Knowledge and information on the average duration of the competition race, the pace of movement, the duration of the pause and active movement, the type and frequency of the techniques applied will enable coaches and athletes to understand this relatively new competitive discipline.
e results of this study can help to further improvement the sport performance in ice climbing discipline.Future research, in order to obtain a more complete picture of the structure of sport performance of ice climbers and to con rm or deny the thesis of this study, should include all competitions that are held within the UIAA World Cup in ice climbing.

Palabras claves
Stretching right / le hand up, right (right hand right up, le arm up right) -Stretching right / le hand up, le (right hand up le , le hand up le ) -Stretching right / le hand up, right (right hand right, le hand up right) -Stretching right / le hand down, right (right hand down right, le hand down right) -Stretching right hand down, right (right hand down right) -Stretching right hand horizontally, right (right hand horizontal right) -Stretching le hand down, le (le hand down le ) -Stretching le hand horizontally, le (le hand horizontally le ) e complex elements of the climbing technique have more complex mechanic pattern and require the active involvement of the whole body.e following climbing techniques are analysed as complex: -Hand change (le tool, right hand; right tool, le hand) -Figure four -the opposite leg goes over the opposite hand, for example, the right leg crosses the le hand and the le leg above the right hand -Figure nine-right hand above the right leg or le hand above the le leg -Attaching tool picks to the same grip (connection) -Clipping In addition to the absolute values of the variables, in terms of methodology, the relative values expressed in percent (%) are calculated.All variables with relative values are calculated according to the standard mathematical principle: relative variable = (selected variable / original variable) x 100; Eg: Active climbing time (%) = (Active climbing time (s) / Total climbing time (s)) x 100.Data analysis Data processing is performed in the Microso O ce EXCEL statistical sub-program, version 2007.Descriptive and comparative statistics are used for data processing.Descriptive statistical parameters determined for all variables were: -Arithmetic Mean (Mean) -Standard deviation (SD) -Coe cient of variation (cV%) -Minimum value of the variables (Min) -Maximum value of the variables (Max)

Table 1 .
Results of Student t-test for time climbing parameters and coe cient of variation for men and women

Table 2 .
Results of ANOVA in function of applied elements of the techniques for men and women

Table 3 .
Structure of sport perfomance in both categories